Though established names still hold sway, smaller watch manufacturers are quicker in responding to market demands for new products.
In the tough new world of multi-million-dollar mergers and billion-dollar takeovers, smaller firms, especially the family-owned ones, seem like relics. Huge corporations with a multinational presence are driving this fragile breed out of business.
The luxury watch industry is no exception to this trend, considering companies such as the Swatch and Richemont Groups now dominate the watch industry. The Swatch Group owns several successful high-end brands such as Breguet (founded by Abraham Louis Breguet, one of the pioneers of watch-making technologies, in 1775), Blancpain (founded by Jehan-Jaques Blancpain in 1735), Omega SA (founded in 1848 in Switzerland by Louis Brandt) and Glashütte Original (a German watchmaker founded in 1845), among others.
The Richemont Group owns brands such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin, A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Officine Panerai, International Watch Co and Baume et Mercier.
But this hasn't really affected the endurance of family-owned watch manufacturing companies such as Audemars Piguet and Patek Phillipe, and the quality of their creations. In fact these brands are considered pioneers in the world of haute horlorgerie.
Luxury watchmakers
The Swiss luxury watch-making pioneer Audemars Piguet has been credited with several innovations since Louis Audemars and Edward-Auguste Piguet founded the company in 1875.
The partnership has endured as the company is the oldest manufacturer of high-end watches still controlled by the founding families.
Audemars Piguet's rich heritage has yielded several firsts, including the development and completion of the first minute repeater wristwatch (1892), smallest five-minute repeater movement (1915), first jumping hour wristwatch (1921), the spectacular Royal Oak (calibre 2121) — the first high-end steel sports watch (1972), the first ultra-thin self-winding tourbillon wristwatch (1986), and the Dual Time, the first wristwatch to display time in a second time zone, driven by a single-self winding movement (1989).
These are just a few of the innovations the company has come to be recognised for. Its international success has seen Audemars Piguet grow into a company with more than 700 employees and three production sites in Switzerland.
Patek Phillipe, owned by the Stern family, is another family-run brand that is globally recognised for its skilled craftsmanship, creativity and exemplary management. Originally founded by two Polish immigrants, salesman Antoine Norbert de Patek and watchmaker François Czapek in 1839, the company was called Patek, Czapek & Cie. Czapek left the company in 1845 and Adrien Philippe joined Patek in 1851. The company was renamed Patek Philippe & Cie, which was changed again in 1901 to Ancienne Manufacture d'Horlogerie Patek Philippe & Cie, S.A.
Loyal following
The Stern family, who purchased the company in 1932, have managed Patek Phillipe ever since. It has gained a loyal international following for its technically superior mechanical complicated watches. The company's Calatrava, Ellipse, Nautilus, Gondolo, Aquanaut and Twenty~4 collections are a testament to the creative genius of Patek Phillipe.
Companies such as Audemars Piguet and Patek Phillipe have led the way for smaller firms run by watchmakers in recent times. Van Der Bauwede Geneve, run by Maxence Van Der Bauwede, is renowned for its non-conformist style and exclusive creations that are favoured by some of the world's most famous names. Its first watch, the 'Magnum' with a modern mechanism and a case in the shape of a keg, helped put the company on the global map. While relatively new, Van Der Bauwede Geneve is deeply inspired by the standards set by Maxence's ancestor Alexis van Der Bauwede, a skilled watchmaker who inspired his children to the same passion for watch making.
Some of Bauwede's path-breaking timepieces that won acclaim include the Lace collection. The bracelet in this collection is made from lace… a new concept in the market. "Our Vintage collection, especially the Magnum collection, launched in 1985, was also considered avant-garde for its time. Our Snake collection is popular because of its 'snake' setting and the mixture of trends with the 'Python' bracelet," says Bauwede.
Being a smaller, more exclusive watch-making enterprise has its advantages, including the efficiency to carry out decisions. "We respond fast to market demands for new products, which is indispensable when it comes to staying connected to trends. This fast flow of communication allows us to produce tailor-made products for our VIP customers.
"Our creativity is not only helping us to maintain profitability but also giving us the pleasure to design different and novel products which, in turn, increases customer satisfaction," says Bauwede.
Olivier R. Muller, CEO and founder of Villemont, an independent high-end Swiss watch brand based in Geneva, is in agreement about the fact that smaller firms such as his are more reactive to market requests and feedback as their decision process is shorter.
"As a young independent company, we also have the freedom to create and innovate without being limited by the weight of tradition or the short-term profitability expected in bigger corporations," says Muller.
Exclusive pieces
Innovation is also the key to survival in the competitive watch-making environment. Though it's a challenge for small independent brands to survive in such an environment, Muller is convinced of the potential of a niche brand such as Villemont.
"Our clients are looking for exclusive timekeepers that will not be worn by everyone. On the distribution side as well we notice a strong interest from retailers for new brands that offer a credible alternative to established names," says Muller.
"Our timepieces harmoniously blend heritage and innovation, as well as tradition and avant-garde trends. To achieve sophisticated aesthetics and high level of finishing, Villemont chose the finest materials and developed astute innovative solutions in terms of production. All the movements are decorated in the tradition of Swiss watchmaking — blued screws, 'Côtes de Genève' on the oscillating weight, fine circular-grained bridges — that can be admired through the sapphire case back," he says.
Constantly seeking to innovate, Villemont offers new designs or materials as well as invest in the future to guarantee long-term excellence.
"In 2006, we created a new alloy exclusive to the brand — the VLTIMUM, made with pure precious metals. This alloy was used on the limited edition Esprit des Artisans N°1, our most exclusive collection dedicated to watch connoisseurs," says Muller.
"In January 2007, we launched the Solar Navigator timepiece that features the solar navigation system, a simple yet ingenious way to identify cardinal points location," he says.
Innovation has also helped Guy Ellia create a niche for his company in the watch industry.
With a background in jewellery design, Ellia diversified into the watch business and launched his brand in 1999. His focus on design innovation helped him create watches that are considered collectibles. The Tourbillon Zephyr, one of the latest creations from Guy Ellia, was launched at Basel this year. The timepiece, boasting extraordinary tourbillon creations, is considered an important expression of the art of watchmaking.
Any list that acknowledges the achievements and innovations of individuals (and their companies) in the world of haute horlorgerie is incomplete without the mention of Franck Muller who established his company in 1992.
Considered a legend in the field of watchmaking Muller's brand is one of the most prestigious among its peers. He personally designs all the complications for his watches, which is a commendable feat by any standards.
Personal designs
His timepieces that include the Endurance, a simple chronograph, and the limited edition Curvex minute repeater tourbillon, are brilliant and among the best 'complicated' watches manufactured.
Jerome DeWitt, who launched his brand in 2003, has also achieved remarkable milestones in a short period. In 2003, DeWitt caught the attention of the world by announcing the Pressy Grande Complication at the International Watch Exhibition in Basel.
In 2005, the company launched a patented development, the Tourbillon Differentiel Academia.
The model won the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix in the innovation category. In 2006, DeWitt launched the Tourbillon Force Constante Academia — an innovation that has ensured DeWitt's position in the hall of fame for the art of watchmaking.
Current trends
DeWitt's success is proof that you don't need to be backed by a big conglomerate or sell thousands of watches to set the standards for excellence or success.
The current trends in the luxury watch industry — especially in Switzerland, considered to be the birthplace of watchmaking — are helping independent brands make their mark. The watch industry, which turned to its past to find inspiration for a long time, is now undergoing a little revolution, says Muller.
"The beginning of the 21st century saw the birth of many independent brands offering new complications, designs and materials, breathing 'fresh air' into the secular Swiss watch industry. Villemont is extremely motivated by this innovative trend and new challenges. The brand is proud to be considered as part of this new orientation by innovating without denying the incredible Swiss watch making tradition," says Muller.
His positive words echo the spirit of a new generation of independent brands that promise to stand the test of time, and maintain their individuality in the world of haute horlorgerie.
