With its winding alleys, flowing canals and quaint piazzas, the city is as pretty as a picture waiting to be framed at every corner.

You know you are in Venice when you see large crowds rushing about in every direction, cameras pointed, led by a harassed tour leader with a flag waving in the air.

It is the Venetian effect —with its winding alleys, flowing canals and quaint piazzas, the city is as pretty as a picture waiting to be framed at every corner.

Despite reports of its smelly water, slow sinking and declining population, Venice still draws millions of tourists to its shores each year.

Day 1

9am: Begin your day at St Mark's Square. A certain celebratory atmosphere usually prevails in the square thanks to the makeshift stalls selling souvenirs and masks, cooing pigeons and cafes teeming with al fresco diners.

11am: Palazzo Ducale or Doge's (duke's) Palace was the seat of the government of Venice for centuries. The Palace is built in gothic style and is an imposing presence in St Mark's Square.

Take your time walking through the enormous conference and reception rooms with their grand frieze of paintings, the Bridge of Sighs and the prison cells.

To book tickets in advance go to, www.tickitaly.com/tickets/doge-palace-tickets.php

1pm: The Rialto Bridge spans the spectacular Grand Canal and is the oldest and most famous bridge in the city.

It is worth taking a boat tour on the Grand Canal, as it is the best way for first-time visitors to see the old buildings, churches, bridges, gardens and warehouses that line the canal.

Log onto www.tours-italy.com/venice-city_tours-grand_canal.htm for details.

3.30pm: The Peggy Guggenheim Collection is the most important museum in Italy for European and American art of the first half of the 20th century. It is located in Peggy Guggenheim's former home, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, on the Grand Canal in Venice.

The museum was inaugurated in 1980 and houses Peggy Guggenheim's personal collection of 20th century art, masterpieces from the Gianni Mattioli Collection, the Nasher Sculpture Garden, as well as temporary exhibitions.

7pm: Succumb to the oldest tourist trap in Venice — the gondola ride.

It usually works out as a better deal if it is a group of four or more people. Book online in advance (www.viator.com or www.isango.com), and you are likely to save about 10 euros (about Dh52.50) per adult.

The meeting point is at the Hotel Bauer gondola stop (next to Hotel Bauer, San Moisè square at the back of Piazza San Marco).

Day 2

10am: Reserve this day for a trip to explore the famous islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello, famous for their handicrafts and glass blowing.

In 1921, the glass-blowing industry in Venice was moved to the island due to fire hazards.

There is also a museum on the island displaying the world-famous Murano glass. If you don't want to lug back a vase or a big piece of glass, you can get smaller glass key-chains and earrings.

Don't forget to see the anglers' houses painted in bright pastel colours on the island, and of course, the famous lace museum.

Torcello is a quiet oasis, located a mere 40-minute boat ride away from Venice.

The main attraction on the island is Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, which was the first church in Venice, founded in the 7th century.

Next door, the octagonal church of Santa Fosca and the bell tower are also beautiful and most tourists climb up the tower for spectacular views.

It is worth buying a combination ticket that allows entry to all three attractions.

USEFUL ADDRESSES

Guggenheim
704 Dorsoduro, I-30123
Open daily from 10 am to 6 pm (closed Tuesdays and December 25). Tel: 39-0412405411; E-mail: info@guggenheim-venice.it

Palazzo Ducale
Piazzetta San Marco
Tel: 041-5209070

Trattoria Pizzeria Da Roberto
A reasonably priced restaurant in San Zaccaria, close to the heart of the city. Good seafood and pizzas. Tel: 041-5221506; web: www.trattoriadaroberto.com

TIPS
How to survive in Venice

- Most hotels in Venice are expensive including one and two star properties. Expect to pay anything from 200-350 euros (between Dh1,040 and Dh1,820) per night for a double room, especially during the high season.

An alternative is the town of Maestre, where you can find inexpensive hotels. It is located on the outskirts of Venice with frequent bus and water taxi or vaporetti connections to the heart of the city. A 48-hour pass costs about 25 euros (about Dh130) and gives you unlimited rides on the bus and vaporetti (water buses).

Vaporetti are unique to Venice and a great way to go around the city.

Always try to sit on the seats in front for spectacular views.

- Buy your bus tickets from a tabacchi (tobacco shop); it is a little more expensive to buy it on the bus.

- Don't sit down at the first restaurant you find at Piazza San Marco — you can get better value for your money as you walk further in.

Despite what the servers tell you, portions in most restaurants are big enough to be shared, so don't get bulldozed into ordering too much food.