When Oberoi Hotels & Resorts invites you to experience its unique brand of hospitality in some of its most spectacular resorts in Rajasthan, India, there's only one thing to do. Pack your bags and go.
Have the mountains of the Aravalli range been following me from Ranthambore or am I following them? Whatever the case, I am loving every minute of this togetherness.
In Jaipur, the hills intrigued the mind as they lay in the dusk-suffused beauty of Rajvilas, prone like a watchful sentinel in the inky night.
In Udaipur, they still beguile as a backdrop, jagged edges softened by the morning haze. Udaipur is a heartbreakingly charming city.
Street after street offers glimpses of what was once considered the jewel of Rajasthan. Frescoes fade with stubborn pride on portions of what once would have been the wall of a fort; minor and major architectural designs hold form and filigree and are wrenching in their dilapidated beauty; streets wind their way through what might have been a path in a queen's courtyard...Udaipur is alluring and unforgettable in the way legendary reigning beauty ravaged by time is.
Spectacular Oberoi Udaivilas
I shut out the sounds of the boots of time marching through history and turn my mind to the present, my anticipation is roiled as I am driven to one of the most spectacular resorts in India – Oberoi Udaivilas.
It's the kind of structure the maharajahs of Udaipur would have appreciated. Skirting the city's famous Lake Pichola like a golden zari border on one side, it shimmers and shimmies in its own reflection on the skin of the lake.
A grand structure in sandstone, it covers over 30 acres that seamlessly integrate 90 rooms in varying degrees of super luxury. The main entrance is inspired by the Rajput palaces of an era that to date remains unmatched in its nostalgic grandeur.
While Rajvilas is built like a fort, Udaivilas is a magnificent palace. Whereas other Rajput kings and princes were known as maharajas, the founder of Udaipur, Udai Singh, was given the title of Maharana – the highest title that can be bestowed on royalty – on account of his unsurpassed valour, iron principles and an uncompromising pride in his bloodline that was evident to both the British and the Mughals in equal measure.
Udaivilas befits the legacy of the city and its ancestry in the way its architecture and interiors pay homage to exquisite Mewari aesthetics.
The lobby is a study of a combination of the past with the present, executed with a genius touch. Brobdingnagian but comforting, it has as its central feature a stunning chandelier that hangs over a marble fountain.
The chandelier is suspended from a domed ceiling and it is anybody's guess as to which is more beautiful – the glittering fixture or its vault.
The edge of the dome has a skirting of painted panels, many of them exquisite renditions of florals in miniature form (an art form Udaipur is famous for). The work is by artist Ghansyam Nimbark. Take your time to admire it. It's time well spent.
Expanse of serenity
Outdoors, the landscape of Udaivilas is a walker's delight. In a single sweep, you can see it all, sort of. Long leisurely pathways, groomed shrubbery, views of the placid Lake Pichola in the foreground and in the distance, meeting your eyes with warm familiarity once again, the Aravalli Range.
It's a haven of serenity that allows you to unwind under the shade of a tree or perched on the rim of a swimming pool, legs in the cool waters and torso warming under the sun or sitting under the multitude of chhatris (mini pavilions) that adorn the acres of Udaivilas everywhere.
But now I am eager to see the interiors of my suite. It is, after all, my oyster for the duration of my stay and I want to slip into it.
Luxurious as a pearl
Escorted by the charming Preksha, one of the staff, I walk along a pathway that has rooms leading off it. She shows me one of the rooms, a lovely study in the mix of tradition and modernity, with tradition having the last word. Oberoi has perfected this mix in its Vilas properties.
Past the rooms, the corridor ends in a face-off of two magnificent suites. One of them is mine. The suite, large enough to host a Venetian ball, is a lovely jigsaw that must be put together piece by piece.
A seating area with plush sofas and a coffee table are within a few metres of a jharoka (window seat) that is piled high with silk cushions and enough space to sleep or simply curl up and daydream.
Who needs a bed? Ah, but at the Oberoi Vilas resorts, the beds are something else. Sometimes sleep feels happy if it gets the super luxe treatment.
The jharoka overlooks your private swimming pool and terrace where you can have breakfast, lunch or dinner. Your preference is their command.
I limber up the few steps to the terrace just for the view of the surroundings. It's breathtaking. And the silence is shatter-proof.
The pool, by the way, runs the length of the rooms but most guests, I presume, would not want to indulge in a marathon backstroke. The idea is to indulge in the luxury of stepping into your private pool before the breakfast trolley arrives.
The master bedroom is, as always in the Vilas properties, a beautiful retreat. The quilt at the edge of the bed here is, in contrast to the crimson burst at Rajvilas, a delicate arrangement of dainty blue flowers splashed on pale silk.
But what takes your breath away is the washroom area. So lavish and spacious, you could throw another party in here. A Victorian bathtub takes pride of place, even as the modern shower stall vies for attention.
But the trophy goes to the concept of a private courtyard just outside the glass windows. Enclosed by a pink wall with lovely frescoes of elephants and howdahs, it is liberating, this patch of privacy under the skies.
You can cartwheel, do yoga, dance to a tune in your iPod or tan all afternoon – it's your space and yours alone. You can also, if you wish, sit against the pink wall and write a poem, confident that you won't get the pink slip.
It's that kind of a place
At night, Udaivilas turns into a dream palace. The glow of the golden lit sandstone reflects in the inky waters of the Pichola. When the weather is good, rectangular sit-ins near and under
the many chhatris are done up with carpets, bolsters, sink-into pillows and mattresses for families or groups for an al fresco experience.
Al fresco dining? In-hall dining or in-room dining? Take your pick. Udaivilas offers a first-class fine dining experience. From traditional Rajasthani/Indian fare to impeccable Continental dishes, it has an exceptionally well chosen menu.
On the other hand, the fanfare of in-room dining alone is worth the experience. Plus you will be sent some of the most delicious mini desserts courtesy of the pastry chef.
Each piece is a chocolate/fondant/nougat/cocoa snow sculpture, all served in a row on a frosted glass sheet. It so resembles a still life, all it needs is a glass case to cover it and a plaque that reads 'Please do not touch'. But of course, that's my imagination losing its way.
A wonderfully rejuvenating sleep in the majestic four-poster bed is a perfect end to a perfect day.
Step back in time
The next morning, it's off to the City Palace, the place that housed the royalty of Udaipur. Put on your walking shoes, chuck a bottle of water in your tote and get ready to step back in time.
It's hard to find any one word to describe the experience of touring this amazing place. A herd of emotions, feelings, questions and stretches of silences stampede in your mind as the guide explains the history of Udaipur, the wars, the victories, the defeats, the pomp, the splendour... Briefly, my mind goes back to the books I had thumbed through on the coffee table at the suite, one of which was solely devoted to showcasing the jewellery worn by the Rajput kings and queens.
Emeralds the size of kiwi fruit, rubies round as plums, ropes of pearls long and strong enough to moor a ship to the dock... all this lavish jewellery worn with a cool hauteur that is hard to find anywhere in these times.
I usher myself back to the present. My guide has gone ahead and is standing near a painting lost in thought. I glide up to him and he comes to life.
"This is a depiction of the famous Battle of Haldighati," he says, his voice bordering on the reverential. (The Battle of Haldighati was a historic battle, an epic struggle for control between the Mughal emperor Akbar and Rajput king Maharana Pratap Singh for Mewar.)
The Battle of Haldighati canvas is stunning in its detail and precision. Every single brush stroke is like a word in a novel that has a taut, grim plot told with unsparing passion. The canvas depicts a war in progress. "It was painted by an artist whose name is not known," says the guide.
"He painted from memory, after hearing the many tales of this historic battle." It takes you a long while to move away from the painting. Do so and you will find another series of paintings of Maharana Pratap Singh and his horse, Chetak.
Though the battle was indecisive, the valour of Maharana Pratap Singh and his horse Chetak have attained legendary status.
Akbar's Imperial army came on elephants. The Rajputs rode in on horseback. The Imperial army had strapped broadswords on to the legs of the elephants.
It was one such broadsword that sliced through Chetak's leg as he reared on his hind legs to enable his master to angle the spear at the general of Akbar's army.
On three legs but unwavering in his loyalty, the gallant stallion attempted to keep the fight going but it was too late. He was taken to a safe place beyond a mound and as he lay there dying, with his master cradling his head in his lap, the eyes of Chetak locked in on his master's face for the last time.
Despite the sun dancing in the corridors, the dappled courtyards, the once stunning interiors that still retain their regal aura and a wealth of other details that comprise the tour of the City Palace, the fading light in the eyes of Chetak and the stricken face of his master remain like floaters in your eyes for a long time.
Outside the City Palace, down the narrow streets, Udaipur's famous craftsmanship is on abundant display. Silver work, marble sculpture, artefacts, jewellery, ethnic wear, pottery, linen... it is a shopaholic's playground.
The only thing that rivals the city for complete attention is the magnetic pull of Udaivilas. Here too, as in Rajvilas, you can decide to simply stay in and have a fabulous time. It's a premeditated strategy that works. And how.
Important websites
For more info, log on to www.oberoihotels.com
For info on Udaivilas, log on to www.udaivilas.com
(All flights, international and domestic, to the Oberoi resorts featured in Friday were courtesy Jet Airways.)
Oberoi Udaivilas
The Oberoi spas, managed by Banyan Tree, are great places to unwind and pamper yourself. The luxurious spa at Udaivilas, with its own swimming pool, overlooks the lake. Trained therapists pamper you with rejuvenating treatments.
In the spa suites, spectacular views of Lake Pichola and the City Palace inspire the spirit whilst your body is revitalised
by the healing hands of highly trained therapists.
Tour
Create your own tailormade Oberoi itinerary-based package through India in luxury. Visit www.indiatravelluxury.com).
About Oberoi Hotels & Resorts
The Oberoi Udaivilas, Udaipur awards & accolades include:
- Number 1 Hotel in the World awarded by Travel + Leisure, 2007. Readers' Poll Rated the 2nd Best Hotel in the World awarded by Condé Nast Traveler, Readers' Choice Awards 2007.
- Best Hotel in Asia
awarded by Condé Nast Traveler, Readers' Choice Awards 2007.
- Top 100 Hotels in the World (ranked 3rd) awarded
by Travel + Leisure, 2006.
- World's Top 25 Spas (ranked 14th) awarded
by Condé Nast Traveler,
UK, Readers' Spa Awards 2006.
