Legendary rocker Keith Richards was out of uniform. No wailing guitar, no stormy look. As a matter of fact, he was grinning.
It was late January and the Rolling Stones icon was chilling on a wooden dock overlooking the turquoise waters surrounding Parrot Cay, a Caribbean islet that bills itself as “the world’s most exclusive resort”.
The 1,000-acre private island is in Turks and Caicos, a semi-obscure archipelago east of Cuba that has been propelled to fame by its popularity with the glitterati.
Star-lined beach
The multimillion-dollar beach house owned by Richards shares the sandy white shoreline with the homes of Bruce Willis, Christie Brinkley and Donna Karan.
I spent several days exploring their chichi slice of paradise, snorkelling in electric-blue waters, sinking my toes into sun-bleached sand, breathing the balmy air. After all, you don’t have to be rich to have fun here.
It wasn’t all play, though. I spent three days touring very high-end resorts — the kind where you might run into a star.
And stars are the ones who have helped make Turks and Caicos Islands, or TCI, a success story.
Twenty years ago, these 40-some islands and cays had few paved roads or services.
Economy rising
Now this British crown colony has one of the world’s fastest-growing economies; its 33,000 residents share their isles with about 300,000 tourists annually.
There are a dozen or so resorts where overnight stays top $1,000 (Dh3,672) a night and a real estate market caters to multimillionaires.
The soaring popularity of the tiny West Indian territory isn’t surprising.
A 75-minute flight southeast from Miami, it is close enough to be an attractive short-holiday destination for the East Coast platinum-card crowd.
Other pluses: Crime is minimal, locals are amiable and everyone speaks English.
And, of course, there are the stars. Where they lead, others follow.
Celebrating celebrities
Everywhere I went, people talked about the luminaries who were visiting: Cindy Crawford at the Grace Bay Club, Will Smith at the Somerset on Grace Bay, Alicia Keys at the Regent Palms, Kelly Ripa at Amanyara.
The four luxury resorts are on the island of Providenciales, aka Provo, TCI’s main tourist centre.
The other islands and cays are low-key, except for Grand Turk, the capital, where a Carnival Cruise Lines port opened in 2006.
But Provo has the momentum; it’s home to an international airport, along with great beaches, fine restaurants, a small casino and a golf club, all packed into 38 square miles.
I spent most of my time in Provo, peeking below the brims of baseball caps for famous faces.
Visitors uninterested in stargazing can find other diversions. For instance, I hopped on a boat in Provo and headed out to sea.
In less than 30 minutes I found an isolated sandy cay populated by osprey, flamingos and iguanas.
Wildlife and adventures
Nearly 300 square miles of the islands have been designated parkland and wildlife sanctuaries.
But one of the biggest draws is underwater, where divers and snorkellers come eye to eye with an array of sea life.
Many people visit to explore the coral reef, one of the world’s largest. Divers can also scuba down a sea wall where the continental shelf drops a mile.
And then there are the beaches, especially Provo’s 12-mile-long Grace Bay Beach, lapped by turquoise waters.
The reef fringing the island creates something akin to a lap pool.
High-end tourism is the name of the game but you can also see these islands on a budget.
A couple of motels on Grace Bay charge $100 (Dh367) to $200 (Dh734) a night, and dining where the locals do saves money, too.
Though these places may not feature foie gras or filet mignon on the menu, the Caribbean vibe they exude is definitely unbeatable.
Smokey’s on Da Bay, for instance, is the place to be on Wednesday nights in Provo.
Music blares from huge speaker towers while cooks grill dinner.
The diner-style restaurant is in Blue Hills, a small settlement on Provo where the locals live, shop and play.
I arrived just in time: Lobster and snapper were sizzling on the outdoor grill under a full moon.
“Ten years ago,” a patron said, looking across the bay to where hotels lined the water, “I’d look down the beach and see two lights.
Now there are lights everywhere. It’s like Miami Beach.”
Change positive
He wasn’t complaining. Like most residents, he was happy about the jobs and opportunities these changes have brought.
The French company pioneered the tourist industry here when it cut a road from the Providenciales International Airport and opened its doors to GMs (gentil membres or “gracious members”) in 1984.
Club Med Turkoise has been going strong ever since, doing its own thing in a sort of a quirky vacuum that ignores the world outside its gates.
The club, for instance, sets clocks forward an hour, creating its own time zone.
Estate of choice
Parrot Cay, the island that’s home to Richards and other superstars, receives the credit for bringing a buzz to Turks and Caicos and proving that the area was ready for high-end tourism.
Now other developers are eager to take advantage of that wave of interest with their own projects.
For the time being, however, Parrot Cay seems to hold the aces.
A 35-minute boat ride from Provo, it offers privacy and exclusivity and comes with a proven track record. To top it all, the commute is fantastic.
I took a morning ride to the island one day, happy to be on that aquamarine sea. I watched as uninhabited cays slid by on the horizon.
I saw little sea life, though, and asked the captain, 20-year-old Gerard Brown, about dolphins and whales.
Humpback migrate through these waters, he said, and are often seen from January to April. “Haven’t you heard about Jo-Jo?” he asked. I confessed I hadn’t.
Jo-Jo plays truant
“Jo-Jo is our famous friendly dolphin. He follows the boats. One day a lady leaned over the side to pet him and he kissed her,” he laughed.
I laughed, too, then turned quickly back to look at the water.
I had done pretty well spotting celebrities on this trip.
Maybe I would get lucky and spot Jo-Jo. At least he wouldn’t be hiding under a baseball cap.
Hard as I tried, though, I couldn’t get a glimpse of him. He was the only superstar I really missed.
PARROT CAY
Splurge
This 1,000-acre private island resort has 59 rooms, suites, beach houses and villas.
In its days as a hideout for swashbuckling sailors, it was called Pirate Cay.
Now it’s a home away from home for celebs and wealthy travellers. Asian-inspired decor, yoga and a spa.
Rates: $525 to $10,000 (Dh1,928 to Dh36,729) a night.
www.parrotcay.como.bz
- GRACE BAY CLUB
Get a Caribbean vibe at this all-suite resort on the striking Grace Bay Beach. Recently expanded and renovated, the resort has adults-only and family sections and fine dining at Anacaona Restaurant. Pools, spa.
Rates: $501 to $8,470 (Dh1,840 to Dh31,109) a night.
www.gracebayclub.com
- SOMERSET ON GRACE BAY
This year-old resort on the powdery sands of Grace Bay Beach exudes classic elegance, with British colonial accents and furnishings.
One- to five-bedroom condos, infinity pool, fine dining at O’Soleil restaurant.
Rates: $275 to $5,000 (Dh1,010 to Dh18,364) a night.
www.thesomerset.com.
- REGENT PALMS
Also taking up residence on Grace Bay Beach is the Regent Palms, with 12 acres of lush landscaping, formal gardens and 164 colonial-style rooms and suites in five buildings, as well as elegant bar.
The rooms can be converted into one- to three-bedroom suites. Tennis court, spa, pool and fine dining at Parallel23.
Rates: $325 to $6,500 (DH1,193 to Dh23874) a night.
www.regenthotels.com/thepalms
Go there ... Turks & Caicos
From the UAE
The closest airport is Provo.
Emirates and American Airlines fly daily via London and Miami.
Fare from Dh6,740
— Information courtesy:
The Holiday Lounge by Dnata.
Ph: 04 4298576
Where to stay
- Sibonne Boutique Hotel, Grace Bay, Providenciales; www.sibonne.com. Rates $110 to $375 (Dh404 to Dh1,377) a night.
- Comfort Suites, Ports of Call, Grace Bay Road, Providenciales; www.comfortsuites.com. Rates $115 to $180 (Dh422 to Dh661) a night.
Where to eat
- Da Conch Shack & Bar, Blue Hills Road, Providenciales; www.conchshack.tc. Conch salad and fritters are the speciality. $10 to $14 (Dh37 to Dh51).
- Smokey’s on Da Bay, Blue Hills Road, Providenciales; Dinner $16 to $45 (Dh59 to Dh165).
- O’Soleil, Princess Drive at the Somerset on Grace Bay; www.thesomerset.com. Entrées $22 to $45 (Dh80 to Dh165).
Information
www.turksandcaicostourism.com
